perfumers promote fair trade for haiti's 'super-crop' - 55 gallon drum
Laikai, Haiti (Reuters)-
The sun has just risen, and as bare-footed farmers hit the soil with picks, the beads of sweat have been dotted on his forehead, digging for a precious root known as "super Haiti"crop.
"Vetiver is a tropical plant, kind --
Famous Agricultural treasure of Haiti, one of the essential oils of high valueend perfumes.
"It was sent to the other side of the sea," Ross said . "
Mary Adona, 55year-
The six-child old mother works on a hillside off the southwest coast of the city of laikai as a fragrant grass plot.
"They used it as oil and it smelled good.
But they got it from us almost nothing.
"This crop is the main employer in the region, where farmers have harvested vetiver grass from dry, hilly soil in the region for decades, with little chance of making a living --until recently.
The perfume industry has been spurred by the destruction of the 2010 earthquake, which killed more than 200,000 Haitians, and they are working hard to make better woody notes for those who work hard and land to make the fragrance of vetiver distilled-
Famous Perfume bases sold by Chanel, Guerlain, Estee Lauder, Kristin Dior and Hermes.
Major spice merchants have begun to introduce sustainable agricultural methods to offset environmental damage caused by root-pulling grass from the soil.
These changes put more money into farmers' pockets and improved the quality of oil in the deal.
"The beauty industry uses natural products, which has an impact on biodiversity and the living conditions of people who produce these ingredients," said Catherine pereott, founder of the Natural Resources Management Circle in 2008 (NRSC)
Used with 21 perfumes
Industry chief executive who promotes social responsibility in Haiti.
"It doesn't have much impact, and they all know it," she said in a telephone interview at the Grasse office near Cannes, the French Riviera, where the European perfume industry originated in the early 17 th century.
Peyreaut's organization is encouraging the perfume industry to work directly with farmers and winemakers to establish a fair trade for this oil, which is at 55-
The gallon barrel is worth as much as $30,000 to $40,000 for the perfume industry in Switzerland and France.
Firmenich and Givaudan and the two Swiss companies in New York
International spice company, a world-leading perfume company raw material supplier, recently launched a project with xianggencao farmers in southwest Haiti, including organizing local cooperatives, introducing new standards, increasing production and reducing soil erosion.
"Firmenich has been buying oil from the sea for decades, and we have a new vision in 2010," said David Shipman, president of Firmenich North America.
He said the company wants to do something positive for the rural population.
Firmenich will invest US $1 million in its sustainable vetiver project.
Last year, it built a school for 500 children in the remote agricultural village of debochte, equipped with a library of 2,000 books, and helped to form a fragrant grass cooperative, to enable farmers to negotiate a guaranteed minimum price.
This year, the company intends to power schools and dig a well for clean drinking water.
Last year, Givaudan led his own "ethical sourcing" program with the Lai Kai winery Agri-
It is the world's largest producer and exporter of coriander oil.
It helped to build a road linking three growing villages, where roots were harvested and a cooperative with 260 members.
Rene Louis Maurice, a 69-year-old co-operative member, said that the income of co-operative farmers increased by 30%, and production and root quality also improved.
Perfumers working with wineries now offer a 15% premium to farmers who follow best practices and guarantee a minimum price.
This includes placing the roots of the incense root separately for at least 12 months and not harvesting during the rainy season (
Before they reach the factory, shaking the soil from the roots is also rewarding.
George said: "We are trying to educate farmers that it needs to stay on the hillside in order to prevent erosion
The 50-year-old Edouard Elie is the manager of Unikode, another Lai Kai winery.
The value of vetiver lies in the weight of its molecules: it stays longer on the skin, providing so-called low notes in the perfume structure.
It suddenly became popular because of its fairness.
The trade status of vetiver is attracting the attention of the industry.
Estee Lauder recently designed a high
The Italian fashion company Ermenegildo Zegna's "Haitian Root Grass" end perfume for $195 a bottle.
This oil is also used in aromatherapy;
The fragrance is said to be relaxing.
"The big perfume companies have decided, 'Let's go back to the source and influence our ability to sustain these raw materials, '" Trudi Loren said last month, an expert at Estee Lauder, nose, and head of the company's perfume development, was interviewed during a trip to Haiti.
The grass, originally grown in Haiti and in the 1940 s, has a deep root that acts as an anchor in dry eroded soil --
Hillside and thatched roof on the southwest side.
The country has now replaced the French island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean, becoming the world's leading producer of vetiver.
At the end of 1960, the factory was produced in three-decade-
Francois and Jean's long dictatorship
Claude Duvalier (
"Doctor Dad" and "Doctor baby ").
An export monopoly in a state buys oil from a distillation plant at a fixed price, then sells it to a broker in New York and maintains profits.
A Dutchman, Pierre Leger.
Trained Haitian agronomists, recovered the cultivation of fragrant grass in 1980 seconds after the baby doctor, in a counter-
The government ordered him to do so with a gunpoint during the Lai Kai protests.
"It's a miracle plant," said Leger, a 66-year-old agricultural owner. Supply.
"You dig it up, cut off the root, plant it right away, and it will be produced again next year.
Irrigation and fertilizer are not required.
Leger took samples from top French and Swiss perfumers.
"The quality is very good. they can't believe it's from Haiti," he said . " It is noted that Haitian vetiver was previously unknown in Europe, as the New York agent mixed it with the rest of the vetiver grass roots.
Leger said southwest Haiti is an ideal place for fragrant grass.
"Producing oil requires harsh dry conditions. ” HONEY-
Colored beer living conditions in rural Haiti are the worst in the hemisphere, and many families earn less than $2 a day, to be fair
Trade in vetiver has brought hope to farmers in the southwest.
The industry is relatively small.
Haiti's annual crop value is only $12 million to $16 million, divided into 10 wineries, but it provides employment for about 27,000 agricultural households in the southwest.
This oil is very expensive to produce.
About 150 pounds is needed (68 kg)
1 pound root (0. 45 kg)of oil.
Haiti produces about 50 to 60 tons of fragrant grass per year, accounting for about 50% of the world's supply, with fewer fragrant grass grown in Java, China, Malaysia, Brazil and Paraguay.
When the roots are transported to the factory by truck, they are distilled under steam.
The air is pungent and becomes strong, and cloudy beer flows into the big bucket before it is filtered into amber through a centrifuge --colored oil.
Energy costs are reduced by shortening the distillation time.
The next step, the perfume master said, is to transform the boiler to run using biomass, including the root body of the root grass, which burns well after distillation.
Fair, critics say.
The trade system may not help farmers enough.
Scott Freeman, a visiting scholar at George Washington University and author of the Environmental Paper "Haitian vetiver" 2011, said unforeseen events often forced farmers to dig immature roots to pay for medical fees or funerals.
"The economic situation of Haitian farmers is unstable," Freeman said . "
"When they find themselves in trouble, they dig out the grass.
This is their bank account.
"Farmers in cooperatives can earn up to $10 a day, twice the minimum wage.
Despite the popularity of the cooperative system, Reuters found that six workers had harvested a field outside the city of Lekai, saying they earned nearly $6 a day.
"We can't eat the roots we're digging for, and the money we earn is barely enough to feed our family," said Adona, a root-grass harvester . ".
"The man who cooked it made all the money.
"None of the workers said they had seen or smelled the oil from the grass roots.
Peyreaut of NRSC said more work needs to be done to expand the co-operation system, which now accounts for 30% to 50% of the production of large distillers, but she feels the progress
"In 18 months, we really saw a huge shift," she said . ".
"All the perfumers want to improve their business.
They are on a good road.
We can change the whole region together.