outside wood stove shop heater - 55 gallon drum
In this manual I will show you how I made the wood stove heater for my cabin.
I don't want to sacrifice the space in the shed for a small wood stove, and I don't want to run propane or flues through walls or roofs.
This stove uses a 55 gallon metal barrel and steel pipe as a heat exchanger to keep the fire and smoke out of my shop.
Making a stove or anything with fire or metal will expose you to dangerous goods and chemicals.
This is for teaching purposes only.
If you choose to make some changes to this heater, be sure to understand all the elements and hazards involved in these items.
I am not responsible for the actions of others.
Collect all necessary tools and items needed to make the heater.
55 gallon drum kit-
$50 55 gallons-
Free Falling steel plate (
Search for scrap boxes in a local store)
3 "schedule 40 steel pipes-
90 s from the garbage code number 3 "pipeline-
Local pipe supplier 1 3 "pipe joint 6" $20 long
5 $1 4 "pipe fan-
Amazon 17 $2 8' rigid dryer vents/pipes-
15 $ Large hose fixture with nuts and washers4 for every 3/8 bars (for 4-5 inch pipe)-
$1 hot paint (
Auto Parts store)-
$6 tool drill and drilloptional)plasma cutter (optional)
Personal protective equipment (PPE)
Welding mask/shirt for safety glasses/gloves leather/anti-cutting gloves (optional)** REMEMBER -
If your drum has been painted or not washed, there may be harmful or flammable steam inside, or when the pattern is cut.
Put on your PPE and rinse your drum!
I received mine from a local guy and I know he renovated the drum and I know it has been washed out but it is still painted.
This part is basically written in the instructions in the barrel kit, so I won't spend much time on it.
Remove the door piece from your kit and place it at one end of the drum.
Then trace the inner edge and mark all the holes.
Cut the door and drill out the vent.
Connect with the hardware provided.
Do the same for the flue/chimney pieces and legs.
In a standard furnace, the heat exchanger is essentially a set of tubes in which air moves through the pipe and is heated by a heat source.
The idea is to separate the source of heat and exhaust gas from the air to be heated.
Here I weld some of the tubes I got at the scrap yard together to make the "U" shape.
You can use the pipe of any size you like and have it threaded, so welding is not required as long as the connection is tight.
Do not use galvanized pipe! !
The coating of Galvenized steel releases toxic smoke when heating/cutting/welding.
To do this, I bought a short pipe joint and cut it in half to weld it from the scrap yard to the end of the scrap pipe.
Instead, you can buy a 10ft part, cut it in half, and already have threads, or cut off one end of the pipe connection with 2 3' parts.
After trying to weld the pipe to a metal sheet bucket and failing by burning a hole in it, I decided to connect the heat exchanger to the drum with a 3/8 screw bar from the hardware store and some washers and nuts.
My Drum has a removable top, so at this time, cut or drill holes at the top, so that the pipe sticks out from the back.
If you use 3 feet pipe sections, just have about 3-
Stretch out the back to connect 5 inch of the pipe.
This step before we connect the heat exchanger to something you should be ready to burn your barrel and heat exchanger pipe.
Just take some wood and put a big fire hot enough in the bucket to melt all the paint and mill sizes on the barrel and pipe.
In my pipe section, there was a short period of smoke, and I suspect it was the scale and oil from the steel foundry, which lasted only about 25 minutes.
Burn another half an hour to an hour once it looks clean to make sure it's clean.
After completing this process, you can use some high temperature paint from the auto parts store (
Paint drums to prevent rust on the outside (
So far, non-contact fireworks have brought my barrell temperature to the highest around 650).
After that, everything should be ready to connect to your heating unit.
It's fairly simple, cutting a piece of scrap plywood that fits your opening, and in my case this is the window of my cabin that can be used as a shop in winter.
Work for the pipe and cut 2 4 "holes in the fan.
Install the flange and fan on one side blowing out to the heater.
I used a puzzle, but I can do everything.
Make sure the fan airflow direction is facing the heater.
In this photo, I just stuck the flexible pipe on the window, measured some readings with a non-contact thermometer and was happy with the results.
You're ready to heat now!
Here are some thermometer readings from the store, and as you can see, the air is warm.
I still plan to keep the CO/smoke detector combo at all times in the store to make sure I'm as safe as a fire extinguisher. . .
I also weld and cut here.