future soldier/android costume from mostly recycled materials - meat tray pads

by:Demi     2019-09-11
future soldier/android costume from mostly recycled materials  -  meat tray pads
This book records the production of my 11-year-old son's Halloween costume.
You may already have most of these materials and tools. I did.
Below is a list of the things I use, there is a title in front of whether to buyowned, etc.
Purchase materials: plastic soldier helmets for local thrift stores-$5.
00 black PVC foam board (Sintra)-approx $4. 00 -
Puck light purchased at a local plastic supply company-$1.
PVC pipe length: 001$0. 98 for 10ft. (
You won't use all of this)2 PVC tees -$0.
65 PVC elbows$0. 80 eachPre-Own materials)
: Football elbow guard with back glue and compact flashlight black zipper iron hook and ring strap with knee panel (i. e.
Velcro with peeling and sticky back)
Material: 3 disposable plastic ground beef containers 1 disposable roast chicken container 1 nylon belt and plastic buckle (
This is the binding used to transport the tray for bundling)
Squeeze tomato sauce bottle lidHonda Odyssey mesh emblemPackaging foam computer monitor boxTools: Imagine (
The most important tool)Heat gun -
You can use an oven, or even a big pot with very hot rhinestones/drill bits to glue the melt gun/glue the glue. A few weeks before Halloween, I also had my wife save so many cool shape disposable plastic food containers at our recycling station, the ridges and aesthetics she could do.
I found it easier to design around the items you have than to find items that fit your design.
Keep an open mind.
Rotate objects and look at them from all angles for inspiration.
I drew a few basic designs on a few sheets of paper and asked my son to choose the one he wanted.
Keep in mind that these images may not be able to properly describe the phases of the build in the instructions.
To be clear, I recorded this in chronological order of "assumptions", when in reality I do every part of the suit at the same time, and when using paint drying/glue curing time to deal with the rest of the suit, the result is like my nature, there is some sloppy behavior. :(
The project is all about thrift.
I took home some of the old 2009 large calendars from work and used the back as my case paper.
The first time I tracked down a T-of my son-
So I can know the size of the badge.
Before I chose this shape, I went through several iterations of the shape of the chest plate.
I then cut it off the calendar paper and pressed it on my son's body to make sure he had enough space in his neck and enough movement in his arms and torso.
I make sure to cut the pattern slightly above the waist so he can bend it slightly at the waist.
I then used the silver Sharpie marker to track the pattern to the black PVC foam board to better display the shape of the pattern on the black background.
I used my band saw but you can cut the PVC foam board with a sturdy box cutter.
You have to do deep cuts that are repeated several times.
Rotozip or Dremel type tools will make a cleaner fillet cut.
When you're there, you 'd better cut the back plate off.
They are almost identical in shape.
The nape of the back plate does not need to extend to the neckline of the chest plate so low. Look at any T-
You know what I mean.
Warning: this part of the project involves the use of high temperatures.
There is a great chance of injury.
I used a hot gun in this job, but in the past, I used boiling water or a warm oven to achieve the desired results.
One thing about using a hot gun is that you only heat the area you are working on, not the entire shape.
In fact, the hot gun is the safest option for IMHO.
I heated the area where the creases were about to appear, and once the PVC foam lost its stiffness, I treated the edge of the table as a straight edge and bent it into shape.
After all the bends were done, I "took a look" to bend and bend againheated and re-
Curved parts that need to be reworked.
I have my son nearby, constantly testing, installing it on his body and making adjustments as needed. Safety -
Keep in mind that the sheets may still be hot.
Don't put it on the exposed skin until it is comfortable enough to hold it with your bare hand.
Another clothing idea: you can make cool Roman centurion chest plate with PVC foam board.
You must make a simple mold with household items such as bowls, cups, pans, soap dishes, etc.
Just use your imagination.
Place them face down on the table and attach them to a specific pattern with tape.
Heat the PVC foam board in the oven, and a relaxed person quickly moves it to the table and puts it on the arranged bowl and Pan.
Using oven gloves, you can carefully smooth the shape of the artificial stomach muscles on a warm PVC foam board.
Once the shoulder part meets at the top of the wearer, the shoulder will drill holes for the zipper hinge on each board.
I went too far and planned to use 4 zippers per shoulder, so I drilled 8 holes per plate. Way overkill.
Insert the zipper tie into the hole and make sure the zipper tie is "buckled" outside the suit.
Do so for the comfort of the user.
When you tighten the hinge, leave about 1/4 or more slopes/gaps between the chest and the back plate.
So that you can adjust the fit later.
Copy the operation of the third step bending flaps and shoulders.
You can use the tape to connect the shoulders to feel the shape of the suit for the time being.
Make any changes to the basic design before further.
If you plan to glue anything to a PVC foam board, make sure you get the general point of gluing these objects so you can plan to keep these areas relatively flat for easy bonding.
Once the final shape was reached, I got a ground beef container and put it on the back panel, cutting a hole with a box knife about 2 inch smaller than the container.
Rotozip or Dremel type tools will make a cleaner fillet cut.
I connected the battery operated ice hockey light to the upper left breast with hook and ring tape with adhesive backing.
I used hook rings here so that the battery can be replaced as needed.
I also attached the bottom of the roast chicken container at the local deli as a temporary "stomach muscle block ". I only used 1-
The bottom of the pot is 1/2 "because the pot is too high.
To do this, I put the container on its back, took a deck, placed a Sharpie mark on the deck, and rotated the pan, at the same time, use the height of the card group and Sharpie to make a clean line around the pot.
I then cut the pan on the production line with the box cutter.
I took some computer wrap foam and cut it thick enough to put it in the chicken pan and let the glue stick to it.
I then stick the foam heat to the inside of the pan, then the other side of the foam heat onto the chest plate of the pan, right around the area where the abdominal muscles are located.
Things happened so fast that I forgot to take pictures.
After a while, I went back to work.
To keep the meat plate translucent, I put the center of the meat plate up and then I painted it black.
Please be sure to use the paint of plastic outdoor furniture.
What I used was what I had in the garage and almost immediately began to fall off, leaving pieces of black paint on my hands and skin.
I stuck the meat plate on the back plate.
This could be a power supply or portable air supply. . . . whatever.
I wrapped some red paper towels around the lens of a compact flashlight (its all I had -
Red cellophane would be better).
Then I stuffed the flashlight into the entrance hole on the back board.
Once the lights are turned on, it looks like Hal's "eyes" in the space odyssey of 2001 ".
I made 4 belt loops (
Suit waist 1 each corner).
The belt ring is made by drilling holes and making a belt ring with a zipper.
The belt will be worn in a suit and will not be seen by the public.
The image may be clearer. OK.
You can decorate your suit now.
I found the knee brace, the elbow brace.
I tried to match the paint scheme already on the helmet with a colored pen.
I found an old Honda logo in the garage and stuck it on it.
Of course, the dress looks gorgeous, but with all the lights and glitter, he will definitely be noticed by the passing driver.
In fact, I prefer plain black, but it doesn't look very good with the helmet.
I bought two more meat plates and PVC tubes, tee and elbow for the rattan barrel. 1)
I removed the corner flange of the tray. 2)
Connect the edge of the tray together with melt glue. 3)
Using a table saw, I cut a slit in the center of the 3 feet part of the PVC tube.
I think I'm using 3/4 tubes.
I bought the cheapest thin wall PVC pipe. 4)
I use Cut3 tubes for the width of the meat plate and 2 tubes for the length of the meat plate. 5)
I cut the slit at 1/2 of two PVC elbows and two tee. (
Pictures can be explained better. )1)
I got a cut tube and slid the edge on one side of the meat plate over it.
I have been repeating this effort on the meat plate. 2)
2 Split elbows and 2 split tee with dry fit.
Once satisfied with the length of the pipe, pull down both the elbow and the tee. 3)
Clean the cut elbows and tee.
Once coated with PVC glue, reconnect them to the tube.
Before moving to the next accessory, apply the glue to each accessory and connect.
Do not apply glue to all 4 accessories and rush to connect them all in time.
You won't succeed. 4)
Dry install the last 2 elbows and 3 uncut PVC pipes in length to make the handle.
Now make any adjustments to the length. 5)
Remove, clean and reconnect the glue.
I asked my son to hide his neck with a black high-collar shirt and a big black sweat pants or jogger.
Then he used knee pads, elbow pads and knee pads.
Once he put on these clothes, he put on his suit, I unfastened the belt and he finished the ensemble with the purchased helmet and the vinyl mask.
For better measurement, we added a laser pistol with noisy battery operation and a reflective tape.
All of this will be deceived or treated for about $10 with a normal reusable garment.
The helmet is the biggest expense.
He is a happy child!
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